Dhurandhar has brought Lyari Town in Karachi back into the conversation. The film only touches it briefly, but there’s a side of Lyari that rarely gets mentioned beside gang violence, and it’s real and alive.
A story on why Lyari is also called Mini Brazil.
For decades, Lyari has been known mostly for gang wars, violence, and drug problems. That history is real. Alongside all of that, something else has quietly survived there. And, that is football.
Those who watched the film may have noticed a few brief scenes where children are playing football. Of course, the film’s premise only allows it to touch on that in passing. But that small detail opens the door to a much deeper and fascinating history.
The ground shown in the film and its trailers, where political rallies are held, is Kakri Football Ground. Few people know what this place once was. During the worst years of violence, it was a dumping site for bodies. Today, children play football there every day.
Kakri Ground reflects how deeply the game runs in Lyari. The area has one of the largest concentrations of amateur football clubs in the subcontinent and has produced players for Pakistan over several decades.
Football in Lyari isn’t new. The neighborhood had a deep football culture. In a part of Pakistan where most people follow cricket, Lyari loves football like nowhere else. According to a report published in Dawn, there are 178 registered football clubs in Lyari Town.
They mostly run without money or formal support. These clubs keep leagues and tournaments alive, reflecting how deeply the game is rooted in the community.
Football reached Lyari during the British period, especially through Karachi’s port culture. British soldiers and sailors played the game near docks and open grounds, and local labourers and fishermen, many from Baloch communities, picked it up early.
Over time, football stopped being a colonial pastime and became part of everyday life in Lyari. Even during the worst years of gang violence, the game never fully disappeared.
Among the many footballers Lyari has produced for Pakistan, Abdul Ghafoor stands out. Often referred to as the “Pakistani Pelé” because of his skill, control, and attacking style, he grew up playing football on the grounds and streets of Lyari.
His talent took him beyond Pakistan at a time when very few players from the region got such exposure. In 1960, he played briefly in Calcutta, which was then one of the strongest football centres in South Asia.
Later in life, his story took a tragic turn. He was paralysed after the shock of his son’s arrest during a police crackdown on extremism. Before his death, the Pakistani Pelé had just two wishes : his son’s release, and to see Brazil win the World Cup once again.
It’s no coincidence that he wished for Brazil to win; it’s a dream shared by many in Lyari Town. That’s part of why Lyari is often called Little Brazil. Almost everyone here is a fan of Brazil, possibly only a handful supporting Argentina.
During World Cups and major tournaments, you’ll still see Brazilian flags painted on walls, murals of players, and whole families cheering together in ways you wouldn’t expect in a place most outsiders only know for violence.
And there’s a reason behind it. Lyari is home to a significant centre for the Siddi community (also known locally as Sheedis or Habshis), descendants of East Africans brought here centuries ago through the Indian Ocean slave trade.
They’ve maintained their own music, traditions, and identity, especially in areas like Kachi Street. Like a large number of Brazilian footballers, many people in Lyari have African roots shaped by the same history of slavery and displacement. The affinity is very natural.
The Sheedis have a long, proud history in Sindh. In fact, Abdul Ghafoor came from the Sheedi community too. His grandparents had reportedly migrated from Africa and settled in Saifi Lane. The Sheedis are known for their warriors who once fought the British.
One of their most celebrated figures is General Hosh Sheedi, who fought the British in 1843 at the Battle of Hyderabad. Leading Sindh’s Talpur forces, he refused to surrender and was killed, reportedly shouting, “We will die but will not give up Sindh.”
Today, Kakri Football Ground still stands as the heart of Lyari’s football culture. Recent redevelopment has transformed it into a proper multi-sport facility, complete with turf, floodlights, boxing and karate areas, a gym, and even spaces for women and girls to train.
Many older players and locals saw football as a way to keep youth occupied and away from crime and drugs. Lyari’s story isn’t simple. It’s about a neighbourhood that held on to something joyful and human, and used it as a way to keep hope alive.
Sources:
Desmukh, Fahad. “Some of Brazil’s Most Fanatic Soccer Fans Are in a Pakistani Slum.” The World, July 1, 2014. theworld.org/stories/2014/0. The World from PRX Dawn.com.
“Pakistan’s ‘Black Pele’ Hopes World Cup Brings Family Joy.” Dawn, May 28, 2006. dawn.com/news/194376/pa.
“Reviving Football in Lyari.” Dawn, (publication date not listed). dawn.com/news/1740465?u.
Al Jazeera. “In Pictures: Lyari Trades Guns for Football.” Al Jazeera, July 10, 2014. aljazeera.com/gallery/2014/7.
“Karachi’s Long Neglected Kakri Ground Becomes World‑Class Sports Complex after ‘Fantastic’ Makeover.” FootballPakistan.com, June 2023.
footballpakistan.com/2023/06/karach. FootballPakistan.com (FPDC) YouTube. “qUX2x65miys.” Video, (publication date not provided). YouTube. youtube.com/watch?v=qUX2x6.
“Lyari Football Cademy.” Facebook page. facebook.com/lyarifootballc.
“Karachi: Suspects’ Families Contest Police Claim.” Dawn, April 14, 2004. dawn.com/news/356381/ka
